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Comments (14)

  • %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    Hey guys,

    Can you give me some advice on how to reduce the side to side movement seen in the video?

    My current set-up:
    - Horizontal bar, approx. 10 washers each side.
    - Threaded Extension Pipe with the right amount of weight according to your tutorial.
    - Rubber washer for the friction.
    - Foam Absorber around the universal joint.

    Many Thanks

  • jacopo
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |


    To avoid left/right swaying you have to (in order of importance):

    Can the handle spin freely?

    1)Keep handle VERTICALLY (if you accidentally forget to do this add some lubrication drop on steel shaft and in u-joint

    2)If you have a heavy system (I guess you have since you use threaded extension pipe), remove washer rubber and go with metal washer under golden bearing

    3)Make little steps and keep leg closed.

    Which camcorder/DSLR are you using?

  • bisboccia
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    Ecco il mio primo esperimento con la Sturdycam, evidenti problemi di ondeggiamento frontale.
    Canon 7d con obiettivo canon 18-85

  • jacopo
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    Front-back swaying in steadicam can be caused by a too fast Drop Time so first of all try to reduce it as much as you can. Then it’s really important to stay back-right and try to walk at a constant speed. Every time operator accelerate/decelerate you have a normal inertial swaying. You have to use your other hand and keep the sled in bubble!

  • %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    Have a Canon 5dMkii 50mm 1.4 Primelens. Have set up correctly I think, but am getting swaying side to side, can you offer any advice.
    Have 10 washers l(approx 2cms inl )eft horizontal 2 on the right horizontal (apporx 1 cm in), and 19 washers on the extended pipe. Foam round universl joint. Also would any other 5D users be willing to offer any tips on perfect set up?

    Here is my (rather sad ) first attempt

    • jacopo
      %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

      Hello Ray!
      thanks for contacting us!

      Well, first of all a 50mm even on a full fram DSLR body isn’t a great lens to be used with a steadycam for at least 3 reasons:

      1)Reduced depth of field (your subject might be out of focus easily)
      2)It works “against” the steady since a medium lens crushes perspective (on the contrary a wide angle lens magnifies motion and perspective)
      3)Difficult to handle for Op

      of course you can use it but mistakes will be much noticeable!

      For Left right swaying first thing to do is KEEPING HANDLE VERTICALLY otherwise universal joint and golden bearing won’t work correctly! Also add some more washers on horizotnal shaft FAR FROM PIPE (they’ll be more effective!)…then check again drop time and static balance. Make short steps with legs closed to each other! If you raised friction under or on golden bearing please set again the default frction level!

      All informations regarding left-right steadiness here:

      I would not use a lens longer than 28mm. A 16mm would be excellent, a 24mm really good!
      Let me know please!


  • robert
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    Hey guy,
    which steadicam would you recommend for a Canon 7D and Sigma 17-50mm? Regular or Mini? I’d use it for weddings videos mostly!

    • jacopo
      %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

      Hi Robert!
      Well, for a 7D (with any lens even a prime) the regular SturdyCam is the way to go! Generally we always recommend to purchase the regular (Mini is just for travellers) since it allows to use accessories, microphones and it allows more weights on the horizontal bar (so steadier results!).
      Hope that helps!!


  • jacopo
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

    I have a video camera, model Sony HVR-Z1E, and I wonder if your stabilizer works well with this camera, I have a canon 60d too and with this I know that I will not have problems

    • jacopo
      %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

      Thanks for interest!
      With a Canon 60D you will NOT have problems of course:)
      Using Z1 is possible but heavier for you. Also setting is different:

      for 60D setting 2) at this page
      for Z1 setting 3) at the same page

      Hope that helps!!

  • Ari y Mehdi
    %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |


    here is our test footage (edited) :
    We would like to reach the flawless steady feeling of movement shown in your video. Could you give us your feedback ?

    Our sturdycam tends to tilt on right or left side even taking precautions in the way to walk and handling the gimbal straight as you recommend it.
    The all system balance seems ok on a tripod meaning good left/right/back/front static balance, smooth drop time of 2.5 secs…

    As a side note, it would be great to be able to lock the extension pipe, as we tend to touch it and move it (and then unbalance the all thing) with our legs. Any tip for that ? Maybe removing the “plastic washer” ?

    Here are our specs :
    Canon 7d + Lense EF-S 18-55mm II
    10 washers on right camera battery side (extremity of pipe)
    10 washers on left camera side (extremity of pipe)
    17 washers on extension pipe (extremity of pipe).

    We love your system ! Thanks in advance of your feedback.

    • jacopo
      %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

      Well, if that’s your first test that’s asolutely great! Of course you can improve a bit BUT don’t expect too much with a 18mm (29mm on a cropped APS-C sensor)…if you’d use a 10,11 or 12mm you already would fly like a bird:)! For side swaying: are you using a rubber washer under the bearing? If yes please remove it, always keep handle vertically like if you’re carrying glasses on a tray! Make little steps with legs closed…maybe some lubrification on the steel shaft…if you add more washers on each side at the bottom (put 15 on each side and check again drop time), you’ll get much steadier;)
      Yes if you want to “lock” the threaded extension pipe remove the plastic washers! Personally I just tighten both nuts keeping the plastc washers…with a 18-55 you also can mount it outside the arc (don’t do it with a 24-70mm)…
      Make some more test but you already got a high level (you also walk keeping the system tilted and it’s really smooth…something difficult due to u-joint design!…maybe upgrade to a Sigma 10.20mm or a Tokina 11.16mm!
      Let me know!

  • %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |


    I’ve been installing my cam on the sturdycam yesterday and it seems very hard to find the right balance. Even the smallest changes for example of the cameras’ position seem to crash everything.

    In your YouTube video I see that you are also using a Nikon D7000, without the Threaded Pipe Extension. Could it even be, that you’re using a Sigma 10-20mm wide angle lense like me?

    If so, it would be a really great help if you just tell me how many washers you added on the horizontal and vertical bar. If you have other advices too, feel free to tell me! :)

    Thanks in advance!

    • jacopo
      %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p |

      Yes the steadycam secret is a fine adjustment so when you found the right place on the plate put a mark so next time you’ll get the balance immediately. Of course you can remove the threaded extension pipe and install the foot bolt but then you’ll need more washers (and maybe bigger washers at the bottom). In case you decide to use the foot bolt just buy 200 or 300gr of 10X40 washers for few money in a hardware store. I can’t say exactly how many washers you need to add but remember that just drop time can tell you the right number of them, so start addin like 10-12 washers at the top (more on the left side because the DSLR body has more mass at the right side) then add at the bottom the number of washers you need to get a 2.5sec drop time!
      Let me know, you also might send me a vid showing the drop time!

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